Laughing River

Ted McManus | SBFC Board Member

SBFC Volunteer Trail Project on the Salmon River, Idaho

May 1-7, 2024

I woke each morning to the sound of laughter. What a wonderful way to start each day - the sounds of laughter and bird song and a rushing river, the sight of mist rising up the canyon walls to reveal fresh snow 1000 feet above us, and hot coffee, of course. The three late 20’s SBFC staff and one Forest Service trail expert, who were our leaders at Yellow Pine Bar for the week on the Salmon River, woke before we late-middle aged volunteers did. As they prepared coffee and breakfast and laid out lunch food for us to pack, they talked and joked and, especially, laughed.

We arrived at Yellow Pine Bar Campsite on May 1st after a 90-minute jet boat ride up the Salmon River from Riggins, Idaho. The boat crunched into the rocks along the shore of the river as it pulled close enough to the shore for us to disembark. Under the leadership of our SBFC crew, we quickly formed a fire line to unload our prodigious pile of gear onto the beach, scrambling for jackets and shielding our faces from the pelting snow/sleet/hail. Situations like this bring a group of strangers together in a hurry. We had no choice but to work together. Our tarp shelter and tents went up without a hitch. Within a few short hours, we had bonded as a group, aided by the crew’s light-hearted leadership.

Our fearless leaders taking a moment to refuel

Our leaders were the new field staff for SBFC, the confident, experienced trail professionals who will lead the Wilderness Ranger Fellows in the summer of 2024 as they clear and improve hundreds of miles of trail in the two wilderness areas. The five of them - Robbie, Wyatt, Phoebe, Joe, and Emily - come from a variety of backgrounds and areas of the country, but they seem already in sync with one another, as if they had spent years working together - which Phoebe and Emily did in the Bob Marshall. These people work hard and laugh harder, completely comfortable in the wilderness. It’s a beautiful sight to see.

Working on some big rocks!

That type of leadership was so important, because the work we faced was not tossing rocks and sticks off the trail. It was hard work, building rock walls from 50-100 pound rocks to keep the trail from sliding into the Salmon River hundreds of feet below, and widening the tread of the trail by cutting into the hillside with nine-pound hammers/pick axes and smoothing everything out with the McCloud tool. We were clearing and improving the very heart of the Idaho Centennial Trail - the section where hikers drop down from Chamberlain Basin in the Frank Church Wilderness, walk along the fabled Salmon River, and then hike up and out on the Bargamin Creek Trail toward the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. So, as representatives of SBFC, this section of trail is particularly exciting because it’s, in a way, the heart of it all.

The gardens at Yellow Pine Bar (Photo by Stefan Turneaure)

Each day’s hike to our work site took us along Yellow Pine Bar, where an old backcountry ranch is cared for by two of the friendliest people you’ll ever encounter - caretakers Greg and Sue, whose Minnesota-nice personalities in the middle of the Frank Church Wilderness are like a sun-dappled forest after a rainstorm. We were the first people other than the mail plane pilot to stumble into their homestead in many months. We were treated to lemonade and a tour of their blacksmith shop and greenhouse/garden. The pride they have for their work there is palpable. Greg crafts beautiful knives of Damascus steel in the 100+ year old blacksmith shop, and Sue grows 75% of the food they eat each year. They were drying gallons of morel mushrooms to last them until next year’s crop pops up. This is their 17th year at Yellow Pine Bar and their 36th year in the Frank. What a wealth of knowledge!

 

The thoughts of comfortable beds, running water, and loved ones pushed us to pack up on the morning of May 7th. However, as the jet boat muscled its way back down the river to the Vinegar Creek boat ramp, we looked back at the wilderness with longing and a desire to go explore more and more of those trails in the Frank and the Selway-Bitterroot. Soon enough!

Up the River

Shawn Donley | SBFC Board Member

Salmon River Trail #96

Volunteer Project- May 1-7, 2024

Traveling by jetboat up the Salmon River

The further we traveled up the Salmon River, the more apprehensive I felt. This was my first multi-day trail work project and the reality of it was starting to set in. I’ve never done a full week of manual labor and I wasn’t sure how my body would hold up. Most of my working career had been spent in front of a computer dealing with a daily barrage of emails. This week would be a totally different experience. 

Volunteer Beth: “I like big rocks and I cannot lie!”

By the time we arrived at our destination, Bargamin Creek, we had traveled 40 miles upriver and were nearly 70 miles from the closest town. I felt lucky to be in this beautiful, remote location with such a great group of folks. The three other volunteers in my crew all had a fair amount of experience. Beth is a founding member of the Salamander Trail Crew in Oregon. Her level of commitment to trail work is exemplified by a tattoo of a crosscut saw on her bicep. 

John from Boise is the owner of Trailhead DesignWorks, which makes reproductions of Forest Service and Wilderness Area signs. His signs of the Selway and the Frank are available on the SBFC site. Karen from Garden Valley is a veteran of several volunteer trips, including the annual maintenance of the St. Mary Peak trail in the Bitterroot Valley. 

After unloading all our gear from the boat we set up camp along the Wild & Scenic Salmon River in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness. The goal was to spend the week improving the Salmon River Trail #96, which was severely damaged by the 2023 Elkhorn Fire.

Wyatt and Emily cooking up another delicious breakfast.

Our days started at 7am with a big pot of coffee and a hearty breakfast prepared by Wyatt and Emily, our SBFC Trail Crew leaders. Wyatt used to work as an outfitter in the Bob Marshall Wilderness and served up some tasty breakfast sandwiches, french toast, and chocolate chip pancakes. 

After packing our lunches and washing the dishes, we’d all do a yoga session led by Silas. He’s a Forest Service worker based out of Missoula and joined our crew to learn more about technical trail building. It was nice to start the day with some stretching, getting those tight muscles loosened up before a long day of trail work. The leader of our crew, Noel, works out of a local Forest Service Ranger Station and has overseen these trails for more than 14 years. He is also a rockwork guru. In a previous life I’d swear that he was the project manager for an epic site like Machu Picchu or Angkor Wat.

Wyatt, Noel and Karen at work building a retaining wall.

The whole week was spent working on a one mile section of trail. In a Wilderness area with thousands of miles of trail, I was surprised to learn that we would be focusing on such a small section, but Wilderness rockwork is labor intensive and the structures we were building are meant to last for decades. 

Moving large rocks over uneven terrain is a challenge, so we set up a skyline, which is kind of like a zipline for rocks. Once a good building rock was found, it would be carried in a sling, attached to the skyline, raised by a hand winch and then jettisoned to the building site. It was a super cool process and an efficient way to move a lot of rocks a long distance.

The two crews meetup midway between our camps.

After four days our retaining wall was nearly complete. To get a break from the heavy lifting Beth, Karen, John and I spent the first half of Day 5 brushing and scouting the trail downriver from our camp. We had been working in a relatively small section, so it was nice to finally see more of this incredible area. We hiked past Allison Ranch, much of which had been destroyed in the fire the previous year. The trail continued west, staying high above the Salmon River. We were just about to turn around when we saw the familiar yellow SBFC hard hats in the distance. It was fun to connect with the other crew and compare notes. We were jealous when we heard that they were given lemonade and rhubarb (which they baked into a crumble) from the Yellow Pine Ranch.

The weather the whole week was very agreeable, not too hot or too cold and the rain we did get mostly occurred at night while we were sleeping. Every evening after dinner we would sit around a campfire and share stories. Some of my favorites involved ghosts, aliens and questionable Bigfoot encounters. The last day I spent with Silas and Beth brushing the adjacent Bargamin Creek trail and removing large rocks and downed trees. It was very satisfying to see the fruits of our labor while hiking back to camp on a clear trail at the end of the day.


When the boat came to pick us up on the last day I was both excited and a little sad to leave this beautiful place. Any anxiousness I had felt before the trip had completely dissipated. I realized that no matter how tired I was at the end of the day, a warm hearty meal and a good night’s sleep was all I needed to feel completely rejuvenated. It was very rewarding being part of this team and seeing all that we accomplished over the course of a week. If a multi-day trail work project is something you’ve ever thought of doing or have always wanted to do, I couldn’t recommend this special experience highly enough.

Lots of smiles at the end of a productive week in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness.


Shawn Donley

Board Member

Stevensville, MT

Shawn is originally from Pittsburgh, but has lived in Oregon, Washington and Montana since 1991. He recently retired from the book publishing industry, where he served on the board of the Pacific Northwest Booksellers Association. He has also been a member of the Mazamas, the Forest Park Conservancy, the Pacific Crest Trail Association, the Rocky Mountaineers and Run Wild Missoula. Shawn is an avid trail runner, mountain climber, backpacker, and has lived, worked and traveled in more than 60 countries. After having spent most of his adult life enjoying wilderness areas across the Western United States, he feels lucky to now have the time and energy to help maintain and protect the wild places that have given him so much pleasure. Shawn and his wife Susan live outside of Stevensville with a beautiful view of the Northern Bitterroot Range.

Trail Maintenance and Jet Boat Adventures on the Salmon River

Ian Harris | Youth Program Director & Field Coordinator

Salmon River Trail #96

Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest | Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness

April 17-24, 2024

Emily, Joe, and Wyatt doing retread on the Salmon River Trail #96

The first hitch of the year kicked off earlier in the season than usual, on a brisk April morning. Four of our Wilderness Trail Crew Leaders, two Forest Service trail specialists, and Josh and I, left Vinegar Creek on a two-hour jet boat ride up the Salmon River to a camp at the Bargamin Creek outlet. It felt full-circle to begin the 2024 season here, as last year's season ended with a hitch only a few miles up Bargamin. The work was very different, however. Rather than clearing what felt like a million trees like we did last September, this crew performed some deferred maintenance on the Salmon River trail. There's nothing like good 'ol rock work and re-tread to condition the body for a season of hard labor! 

Salmon River Trail #96- The crew with the finished turnpike!

Against the backdrop of clear skies, seasonally green cliffs, roaring rapids, and the occasional Mountain Bluebird song, we moved heavy logs and boulders to construct a turnpike over a small creek, and repaired much of the nearby trail, which had been damaged by the 2023 Elkhorn Fire.

For most of us, the highlight was the jet boat rides to and from camp! For many of us, it was our first time on a jet boat, and while the experience does not scream "Wilderness", the rides were fun nonetheless. Despite overly sore muscles, the hitch was an auspicious start to the upcoming season! 

This project was funded through SBFC members and donors and the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest BAER (Burned Area Emergency Response) Funds.


Ian Harris

Youth Program Director & Field Coordinator

Originally from Philadelphia, Ian moved to Montana in 2010 to attend the University of Montana. He has an academic background in nonprofit management and environmental policy, and has worked in conservation since 2017. After leading youth crews in Montana and Idaho for three years, and a stint with the Montana DNRC Fire Bureau, he spent two years traveling for his wife’s professional disc golf career before joining the SBFC team in 2023. When not in the mountains for work or pleasure, Ian can be found at the movies or with a good book in hand.