From Frustration to Fulfillment: My Return to Colt Killed Creek

Samantha Mobley

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Packbox Pass / Bear Creek Trails

July 3-11 , 2024

Bitterroot National Forest and Nez-Perce Clearwater National Forest | Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness

Sam at the end of her trip on July 2nd, 2021, at the shore of Big Creek Lake.

Three years ago, almost to the day of this hitch, my best friend and I set out from Bear Creek Trailhead in the Bitterroots to hike a challenging horseshoe loop. Our plan seemed straightforward: hike to Bryan Lake from Bear Creek, go up and over Bear Creek Pass, continue to the Colt Killed Creek junction, turn right, hike a few miles, traverse Packbox Pass to Big Creek Lake, then hike out and return home. Little did we know, it would be far from simple!

Sam at the end of her hitch on July 11th, 2024, at the Big Creek Lake shore.

During our planning phase, we contacted both the Bitterroot and Nez Perce-Clearwater ranger stations. Both informed us they were unsure when the Colt Killed Creek Trail last saw a trail crew. Not knowing much about trail work, we didn't think much of it. Additionally, we hadn't yet discovered apps like CalTopo or Gaia and relied solely on a paper map and compass.

On day two of our trip, while lunching atop Bear Creek Pass, we met two men, both named Greg, who had ascended from the Idaho side. They shared tales of their journey, recounting numerous downed trees and brushy sections of the trail. They credited their GPS map tool for navigating the tricky terrain. When we told them we only had a map and compass, they exchanged a concerned look, but we remained optimistic and pressed on.

Immediately upon descending the snow-covered pass, we lost the trail. We spent four frustrating hours searching for it, only to find that the runoff had likely turned it into a nondescript stream. After a bee sting, a twisted ankle, and a fresh pile of bear scat, we decided to camp there for the night and hike out the way we came the next day. After making it out of the woods, we ventured back in through Big Creek, setting up a base camp at the lake to spend the rest of our week. One day, we took a day trip up Packbox Pass to at least complete the Montana side of our original plan. That trip was very memorable, but I have always yearned to go back and try again.

Sam and Nathan on the largest cut of the hitch- a girthy spruce tree.

This year marks my second season of trail work in western Montana. Last season, I worked with the Montana Conservation Corps (MCC), mostly in the Welcome Creek Wilderness just east of Missoula, where I have lived for the past seven years. While I've spent most of my recreational time in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, I cherish every moment I get to work on the trails there. You can imagine my excitement when I was assigned this hitch, with the objective of clearing the Bear Creek-Colt Killed Creek trail on the Idaho side of the Big Creek-Bear Creek horseshoe.

This hitch has been my favorite so far. We hiked over 60 miles and worked hard every step of the way. It's been a challenging yet rewarding experience, bringing back memories of that initial, unforgettable trip and fulfilling my desire to return to this trail and complete the route. Better yet, I had the wonderful experience of watching my coworkers experience this beautiful country for the first time and opening the trail up for other users.

Crew lead April Eling in a section of very dense brush approaching the Bear Creek Pass.

The junction with the Colt Killed Creek trail and the Bear Creek Trail with co-fellows Nathan and Colby setting up the crosscut.

Sam and her crew lead, April, bucking a large log with the crosscut saw.

This hitch was made possible with funds from Athletic Brewing’s Two for the Trails Grant and private SBFC members/donors.

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SAM MOBLEY

Missoula, MT

University of Montana- Wildlife Biology

Sam is a recent graduate from the University of Montana with a degree in wildlife biology. She has been living in Missoula for 7 years and loves to spend her free time running, hiking, and skiing in the wilderness. Sam has a background in baking bread, brewing beer, biological field work, and trail work with the Montana conservation corps. Sam is very passionate about the conservation of our wilderness areas and looks forward to beginning her career as a steward for the wild lands she holds near and dear.

Four Crews in Four Days: A Whirlwind Wilderness Adventure

Ryan Ghelfi

SBFC Executive Director

July 17-21, 2024

We are in the heart of our Wilderness season with dozens of people on numerous crews in the field all across the Frank and Selway. Even for me, with all the data, spreadsheets, and communications at my fingertips, it’s a lot to track.

Last week I was fortunate to carve out four days to get out on the ground. The logistics were perfect with four of our crews and 36 individual people in close enough proximity for me to visit in quick succession. In the middle of my second year at SBFC, I remain confident that there is no substitute for getting on the trail with our crews and seeing what is happening in the Wilderness firsthand.

The Youth Wilderness Expedition participants + Emma (Wilderness Ranger Fellow)

What I saw on this past week's swing was nothing short of spectacular. First, I visited Ian and Emma, who were leading six 13-14 year olds on our second Youth Wilderness Expedition at Walton Lakes. The trail down to the first lake was in decent shape, but brushy and the group took the task to heart opening up the trail corridor on day two. On day three I joined them and we began scouting the trail that continues to the upper Walton Lakes. This trail was buried under deadfall and the crew made fine work reopening half a mile of beautiful tread, creating possibilities for the future. We will come back next year with another youth expedition to continue the work where they left off. I was thrilled to see these teens relishing the work and their time in the wild, bugs and all. This was the perfect location for this age group. This crew rocked it!

Some of the Whisky in the Woods crew.

Photo by Bert B.

Next, I hightailed it over to Big Sand Lake out of Elk Summit where the Whisky in the Woods crew from Moscow had been posted up and cutting out hundreds of logs for the previous 15 days. Over 20 volunteers in two separate groups came out to bring back numerous trails in the area. Five intrepid souls stayed for a full immersion of 17 days. This crew was packed in and out of the woods by multiple packers, including the Binninger family of Landgrove Coffee fame, as well as Nez Perce-Clearwater NF Packer Pete! SBFC Wilderness trail crews teamed up with the whisky crew to create multiple “super crews” and it shows.  Over 33 miles of trail were logged out, and the number of trees removed from the corridor was into the thousands. Near the end of the final hitch the crew made it all the way to Blodgett Pass from the Idaho side which was a big win!  More downed trees remain on other important connections; we look forward to clearing them all next summer.

In addition to SBFC trail crews and the Whisky crew, another crew of retired smoke jumpers from the National Smokejumper Association spent five days bringing the Bridge Creek Trail back to life, also near Elk Summit. This was heavy deferred work, and the crew earned every inch of trail reclaimed. Their efforts created numerous opportunities to find solitude and helped the crews that followed them to get into the country where they’d be working.

Clarinne, Ian, Wyatt, and Rowan

I met one of the crews that followed (Wyatt, Rowan, Clarrine, Ian, and USFS trail specialist Nick H) as they were sitting down to dinner on the lee side of some 10-year-old pines, the only shade in town. They were cutting 100+ logs a day, and the contrast could not be more stark. As I was hiking towards them I came upon an unworked section of trail. My pace slowed to a crawl and I came out bloody as I navigated a few hundred uncut logs over a couple mile stretch. (Our stellar team cut these later in their hitch). Seeing (and feeling) this night and day difference tells a story in real terms like no blog post or hitch report ever could.  

The CatRock + SBFC Crew

Finally, the fourth crew I visited on my tour in the Northern Selway was the CatRock Ventures youth group from New York City led by SBFC trail crew Lead April Eling along with Wilderness Ranger Fellows Jack, Caroline, and Emma. This crew picked up the work where last year’s CatRock group left off on the One Horse Lake Trail on the Bitterroot National Forest. We were excited to complete this project, reopening this primitive trail for the first time in many years. The trail provides access to one of the most beautiful basins I’ve seen in my time at SBFC. This crew learned a ton and worked hard. Through their efforts, the public has a terrific opportunity to experience this corner of the wilderness. Solitude and unparalleled beauty are hallmarks in this tucked-away corner of the Bitterroot.

My whirlwind tour is just a small sample of the full body of work that all our crews have performed this season thus far. Our staff, Wilderness Ranger Fellows, and volunteers  are accomplishing an incredible amount, and providing the public with the ability to connect to our wildest places. We need these places now more than ever. Each time I have the opportunity to work alongside our people and see firsthand what it takes, I come out invigorated and eager to keep pushing forward and building momentum. The SBFC community is moving mountains (and logs) out there, and I am so grateful. Alas, the work never ends… we’ll keep at it so that people today and forever can experience and enjoy the Wildest Place.

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Ryan Ghelfi is the Executive Director of the Selway Bitterroot Frank Church Foundation. Contact him at rghelfi@selwaybitterroot.org with questions, concerns, or to talk about Wilderness!

Fear and Loathing in the Selway

Caroline Newlin

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Big Sand Lake | Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest

July 3-10, 2024

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness

Sometimes what you need is a little adventure in your life. The modern workplace is a boring drudgery filled with spreadsheets and carpal tunnel. This summer, I wanted to prolong my avoidance of my fate as a desk jockey, so I signed up for 14 weeks on a trail crew in the wilderness of Montana and Idaho. This hitch, I got some adventure.

Big Sand Lake. One of the most beautiful places I've camped. (photo by Sammy Phelps)

The biggest appeal to me about coming out west was how alien the plants and animals are compared to back home. A landscape dominated by snow capped mountains even in the middle of July is unheard of. The lack of harwoods is striking. This hitch, I was a part of the whisky crew working around Big Sand Lake. The scenery and plants present were stunning, and I saw species I hadn’t seen on any of my previous hitches. Dwarf lupine, Lupinus pusillus, for example, was magnificent to see. I’m used to the large lupine plants that are found all over the Selway and Frank Church Wilderness areas, but I’d never seen dwarf lupine before. You smelled it before you saw it. The shrub layer in the forests was thick and dominated by huckleberry. Here, creeks are abundant, clear as air, and ice cold. 

The canopy is dominated by lodgepole pine and firs. While working around the trail to Hidden Lake, the scenery changed. This section of the Selway-Bitterroot burned up in 2012, and you could see the remains of this fire everywhere you looked. The bleached skeletons of lodgepole pine lay stark against the sky like the ribs of some extinct animal. It’s a sharp contrast to the green, lush forest we’d seen previously.

A grouse with no sense of self-preservation (photo by Sammy Phelps)

Animals out in the Selway are pretty groovy. On our way to Big Sand Lake our first day, we ran into a mother grouse and her chicks. Grouse are about as smart as rocks. The chicks ran around where we had just walked, cheeping, with no care that we’re very large and have big feet. Mama grouse didn’t care either. She just sat there on a log staring at us and making grouse sounds. We could’ve grabbed her. Eventually, the grouse and her chicks mosied off. 

A mountain lion track. Out here, you aren't at the top of the food chain (photo by Sammy Phelps).

Not all the animals were as docile and potentially puntable as the grouse. Several members of the crew spotted cougar and wolf tracks. Knowing that you are no longer at the top of the food chain is humbling. It brings to mind Doug Peacock’s definition of wilderness: “a place, and only a place, where one enjoys the opportunity of being attacked by a dangerous wild animal.” When I’m at home, my flight or fight response is triggered by laundry. Out here, it feels good to be anxious about the same things Neanderthals had nervous breakdowns over. 

Unfortunately, I had to leave this hitch a few days early. I experienced a unique and devastating injury: spraining my ankle while hustling across camp to eat some corn dip. Jim, the camp cook, had made some corn dip that was so good you’d wreck your ankle. I need his recipe. It’s a truly embarrassing way to get injured. 

Due to the nature of my injury, getting off of the mountain was of utmost importance. The most effective way of doing so was on horseback. It’d been a few years since I’d last ridden a horse, so I was a bit stressed. Fortunately, John, our packer, put me on Kelly, a very relaxed and friendly mule. Riding down the mountain on the back of this mule in a chain brought to mind Forest Service workers 100 years ago doing the same sort of work we’re doing, with the same tools. It makes you feel like you’re part of something bigger than yourself. 

On the way down, John told me about whitebark pine, which is being devastated by white pine blister rust, an invasive fungus that uses members of the Ribes genus as a host. We saw one whitebark pine tree on the way, which is the first of its species I’ve ever seen. It was a young tree, less than 10 years from the look of it, and I imagine it’ll succumb to the fungus soon. Watching a species disappear from the landscape is a terrible feeling. 

One of John's horses (photo by Sammy Phelps).

John also told me about bear grass. I didn’t know this, but bear grass typically flowers once every seven years! The hillsides were a sea of them. I picked a good year to be out here. The excitement and unparalleled beauty made everything worth it.

This project was made possible with funds from the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forests, Idaho Fish & Game Access Funds, and private SBFC donors.

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CAROLINE NEWLIN

Snow Camp, NC

North Carolina State University- Forest Management

Caroline is passionate about the outdoors and has done outdoor work for years. In high school, she did trail work for her local park service and worked for a canoe and kayak company most summers. She has always wanted to visit Montana and Idaho, and this fellowship has given her that opportunity, while also learning about wilderness stewardship. She plans on hiking the whole Appalachian Trail one day, along with visiting all the national parks in the United States. Her hobbies include rock climbing, whitewater kayaking, backpacking, and gardening.

Hard(ly) Working

Colburn Reeves

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

S Fork Lolo Creek Trail- Volunteer Project

June 19-26, 2024

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness

Wilderness Ranger Fellow, Jack, crossing the creek

The breath escaped from me the instant I hit the water; it was freezing. The creek beside camp had looked so alluring when I was carrying that pack, but I had no idea it'd be so cold. Shivering, I gathered myself and started to swim towards the grassy shore.

Once out, a feeling of euphoria washed over me, a sense that everything would be alright. Hitches always seem to have grueling work and serene moments that make it all worthwhile.

Accomplishments and Daily Life

The author at the Wilderness boundary

We spent the days clearing trails, ensuring that paths are accessible for future hikers. Our team of Wilderness Ranger Fellows and volunteers worked tirelessly, chopping through fallen trees, removing debris, and repairing damaged sections. It's tough work, but there's a unique satisfaction in seeing a trail open up and knowing that you've made it safer and more enjoyable for others.

Reflections and Inspiration

Being in the wilderness has been a transformative experience. The combination of hard work, stunning natural beauty, and the camaraderie of the team has been incredibly fulfilling. I encourage anyone who loves the outdoors to seek out experiences like these—there's nothing quite like it.

A curious mule sniffing my hand

This hitch was made possible with funds by: Montana Recreational Trails Program and the Bitterroot National Forest and the Great American Outdoors Act, and private SBFC donors.

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COLBURN REEVES

Decatur, AL

Auburn University- Natural Resource Management

Colburn was raised in North Alabama and enjoys days spent climbing, hiking, scuba diving, or even just hammocking. Anything to get him outside, as he feels most connected and at home when in nature. He is currently at Auburn University pursuing a degree in Natural Resource Management, and is excited to be spending his summer with SBFC to get hands-on experience in stewardship.

Frank's Life Lessons - A Halfway Point Reflection

Samuel Phelps

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Hitches 1-3, June 2024

Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness

I have been lucky enough to be in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness for each hitch so far. Though the Frank, as we refer to it, has proven to be quite difficult, I have grown very fond of the area, especially the region in the Salmon-Challis National Forest. I have been thrown a handful of different challenges in the training hitch, as well as the in the two full hitches that I have been on. I am thankful for each of these challenges, and looking back on them at the halfway point in the season, I realize all that I have learned about myself.

An unsuccessful attempt to save the boots.

On the training hitch, which was my first multi-day backpacking/hiking trip ever, both of my boots blew out on the first day of working. I was so excited about working, being in a new and unfamiliar place, and in complete awe of beauty like I had never witnessed, that I did not realize I had a blowout in my right boot until the left one was half apart and I tripped on it. My Crocs were a lifesaver after having to double as my creek crossers and hiking boots. I continued the hitch, covering about 2-3 miles a day in the high desert climate and rock slides while working...in the Crocs. Here, I learned the importance of adaptability and doing the best I could with what I had available.

Ryan’s surprise visit. (Left to right: Caroline, Nate, Colby, Ryan, myself)

The next hitch was by far the toughest for me to date. I had a brand new pair of boots fresh from REI that had never seen dirt, a very heavy pack, and an excitement to get back to work in the wilderness. Those things were met with a 3.5 mile hike uphill, leading to a camp in a scorching hot burn area with no shade, and by the time Day 4 rolled around, I was greeted with a lovely two-mile hike to the work site that was 2000 feet lower in elevation than camp. And of course, back up that hill we went at the end of each work day. My home state of Louisiana is FLAT, and my body - being unconditioned to elevation changes - was exhausted. The physicality of long work hours in the sun, blisters, and sore muscles gave way to a mental battle only halfway through the trip. I toiled with a severe lack of motivation for a few days, until one morning I heard a voice in camp that was familiar, but wasn’t one of the crew. Our amazing Executive Director, Ryan, showed up unannounced at our camp at 7 am. Just seeing him and knowing the time and effort it took him to get to such a remote location so early was uplifting, as was the fact that he worked willingly alongside us, and...he brought snacks. This surprise visit gave us all a huge morale boost and helped us get through the remainder of the hitch. Here I learned a small lesson in mental toughness, how to push through hard things, and how much showing up for others can mean.

Nathan and I getting some affection from the packer’s dog, Shep. (I just got licked across the face)

Through facing these challenges and much adjustment to being out of my comfort zone, I have learned so many things, but the most important lesson I’ve learned is to reflect. The wilderness is a tough place, but it is also one of unsurpassed beauty, and it offers the ability to learn about one’s self while enjoying this beauty. I am grateful for this opportunity, the lessons I have learned thus far, and the personal growth, for the better, that I have had and will have this season.

To close with a quote, always remember: “Keep it wild, green, and clean while living in a wilderness dream.” - Bryan Parker, US Forest Service Wilderness Ranger, Salmon-Challis National Forest

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SAMUEL PHELPS

Franklinton, LA

University of Mobile- Marine Science

Samuel’s love for the outdoors started with hunting and fishing at a young age. As he got older, the labor side of preparing for upcoming seasons and occasional farm work fueled his passion and interest in conservation and land stewardship. Majoring in Marine Science and planning to continue his education in Forestry: Wildlife Habitat Management, Sammy desires to use his knowledge and experience to have a career conserving the beauty of nature. In his free time, Samuel enjoys hunting, fishing, and outdoor photography. He wants to use his time at SBFC to develop his outdoor skills and become a well-rounded advocate for the preservation of nature.

Rediscovering Old Roots, Planting New Ones

Marlena Nelson

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Youth Expedition: S Fork Big Creek

Bitterroot National Forest | Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness

6/18-6/23/2024

After a steep final ascent and dam crossing, we are rewarded by a stunning panorama around Big Creek Lake, and a still muddy trail

When Ian Harris, our youth program director, reached out to me about helping him lead SBFC’s first ever Youth Expedition, the first thought that crossed my mind was: Only six days? Heck yeah, I’m down! The more and more I thought about it, my true excitement lay in the prospect of creating a life-changing experience for our participants.

I got my true start in the outdoors as a guide in college, working and playing in the rivers, springs and mountains (some may call them hills) of the southeast. The most satisfying part of the job, beyond all the time in nature, was watching my participants fall in love with and become confident outside.

Rob demonstrates a popular free-time activity for our group - fishing in Big Creek Lake!

During our six-day expedition, I got to know four spunky and stoked youths from Montana and Idaho. Veva and Allegra amused me with their fast friendship, youthful jargon, and interest in identifying plants. Rob demonstrated a commitment to fishing (in this case commitment looked like waking up two hours before wake-up time to start casting) that astounded me. Liam inspired me with his tenacity and grit, and an impressive knowledge of movies, music, and vintage cars. Despite the challenges of mis-fitting packs, a cold and wet first night, over-enthusiastic mosquitos, and plenty of flooded trails, our crew was ready to learn and play each and every day.

Here are some of our stats:

Saskatoon, one of the many native plants Veva, Allegra, and I sought to identify around the lake.

• Number of Fish Caught = 10

• Plants Identified

  • Saskatoon (Briefly mistaken for Mallow Ninebark)

  • Trillium

  • Alpine Forget-Me-Not

  • Lupine

  • Larkspur

• Creek Crossings = 5 (each multiple times)

• Memories made = too many to count!

To be able to plant seeds of love of and stewardship for wilderness is a great honor. At the very same time, every moment of teaching brought me back to when I was a beginner, too. Watching our crew of four experience the euphoria of cutting their first tree, or struggle with their first attempts at bowline knot, or tackle camp chores felt like watching my first steps down the path that brought me here.

I am so excited for Rob, Veva, Liam, Allegra, and all of our youth participants to come to take their experiences to shape their futures and that of our wild, beautiful lands. Perhaps one day, they will find themselves in my boots.

Starting a cut with Allegra, one of our youth participants

Before and after of a fun tree problem: A great opportunity to practice limb-ing and cutting!

The SBFC Youth Wilderness Expedition Program is funded in part by:

The 2024 National Forest System (NFS) Trail Stewardship Partners Funding, Bass Pro Shops and Cabela’s Outdoor Fund Grant, the Lamb Foundation, Ravalli Electric Co-Op, Missoula Electric Cooperative, Blackfoot Communications, and private donors.

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MARLENA NELSON

Saxony, Germany

University of Florida- Food & Resource Economics

Marlena grew up connecting with the outdoors of New England, Germany, and Florida. Working as an outdoor guide during her bachelor's degree opened her eyes to the power of nature to shape individuals and communities. Three months of conservation work in Utah and Arizona inspired her to seek further opportunities to practice stewardship of wild landscapes. She is passionate about creating a world in which people and the planet can thrive.

Scouting to Fur Farm- Developments in Wilderness

Nate Thompson

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

SBFC Training Hitch- Little Loon Creek Trail

May 27-June 1, 2024

Salmon-Challis National Forest | Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness

After two weeks of training in the frontcountry, the 2024 class of Wilderness Ranger Fellows was released into the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness to begin applying the skills that they had begun to develop. For this initial six day hitch of working and training, the group was split into two crews. My crew, consisting of six Fellows and three crew leaders, was flown in on bush planes to the Cougar Ranch Airstrip within the Frank Church Wilderness. Our objective was to clear an eight mile section of the Little Loon Creek Trail from the Salmon River to a historic homestead called Fur Farm. This trail hadn’t been fully cleared since the early 2000s, so we knew that there would be a significant amount of work to do. On day two of our hitch, I volunteered to join one of the leaders and another fellow on a scouting trip up to the end of the trail to gauge the level of work that the trail would require and mark any major obstacles. I knew that this would be a long hike of over seven miles each direction. I was excited to explore the area and contribute to our crew’s knowledge.

We ventured off upstream along the creek, crossing the freezing water three times early on in the day. The trail was in better condition than we expected, but there were sections of bushes along the creekside that were heavily overgrown into the trail. The scenery was gorgeous, as the creek flowed through a deep rocky valley. Around three miles into the trail, we found multiple impressive beaver dams and signs of wolf and mountain lion activity. As we progressed, we found a few small to medium-sized logs to cut and clear from the trail. After a few sections of rocky off-trail traversing and route finding, we spotted the homestead that we knew to be Fur Farm at 1:30 in the afternoon.

There are two buildings at the site, one dilapidated log cabin built by the original homesteader, Dutch Charlie, along with an impressively maintained two story cabin built from lumber. We were shocked to find the door to the intact building unlocked and sat down to enjoy our lunch at a plywood dining table. Sitting at a table for lunch is a rare treat in the backcountry, especially in a two-story building! The cabin had a small amount of unguarded supplies, including coffee, hand tools, and folding chairs. The sign on the door told us that it was managed by the Idaho Department of Fish and Game.

This homestead sits on a truly remote plot in central Idaho. It is an imposing thought that Dutch Charlie decided to begin homesteading in such a place, but the beautiful surroundings helped to explain his motivations. Typically, we think of designated Wilderness areas as undeveloped and untrammeled lands. However, the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness houses a multitude of structures and evidence of human activity that existed within the area for generations before its designation. In the past, the Nez Perce and Shoshone tribes inhabited the area. Tragically, these tribes were driven out by miners in the late-1800s when gold was discovered and economic incentives increased the pressure on the land. The Frank is the second largest Wilderness area in the lower 48, with over two million acres of wild land. That massive plot contains a number of airstrips, historic homesteads and ranches, mines, and even fully functional backcountry lodges. In my view, these developments do not detract from the character of the landscape, they support it. They are historic and cultural artifacts that contribute to the Frank’s uniqueness and remind us of the humans who have experienced the brutal Wilderness before us. My visit to Fur Farm emphasized the importance of our efforts to protect this Wilderness and continue the string of cultural heritage into the future.

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NATE THOMPSON

Denver, CO

Colorado Mountain College- Sustainability Studies

Nate grew up camping and exploring the Mountain West with his family. He attended Colorado Mountain College, where he completed programs in Outdoor Education and Sustainability Studies. He feels deeply drawn to Wilderness, where he can challenge himself and find purpose. Nate loves to ski all winter and spends his summers biking and backpacking. Along with his passion for outdoor adventures, he enjoys discovering music, reading, and watching hockey.

Walking TACOs

Emma Stattelman

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Roan Ridge TMO (Trail Management Objective)

06/05/2024 -  06/12/2024

Salmon-Challis National Forest | Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness

Spot the trail! Spot the hiker!

Along the trail!

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EMMA STATTLEMAN

Duluth, MN

Bates College- Biology & Environmental Studies

Emma is currently a senior at Bates College majoring in Biology and Environmental Studies. She grew up in Duluth, Minnesota. Emma was inspired to apply for this position after spending last summer as part of a snorkel crew based out of McCall, Idaho. Emma enjoys running, hiking, and nordic-skiing and is looking forward to learning more about backpacking and wilderness stewardship this summer.

Spring Training

Bailey Underwood

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Salmon-Challis National Forest / Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness

Little Loon Creek Trail

May 27th, 2024 – June 1st, 2024

 My position as a SBFC Wilderness Ranger Fellow has only just begun. A month ago, I was working in a biology lab in a basement with a happylite nearby. Now I am flying into the wilderness on a bush plane, crossing creeks in my sandals, and falling asleep in my tent by 9pm.

Officially took off from Challis airstrip and heading out on hitch. Nervous and laughing a lot. Trying to figure out how to co-pilot in minutes, just in case.

We flew from Challis, Idaho into the Cougar Creek Ranch Airstrip. The Cougar Creek Ranch was built in 1905 and grandfathered into the wilderness area. The ride was smooth thanks to the clear weather, but a bush plane landing has its limits and it was a bumpy one.  Our training hitch took place in the Salmon-Challis National Forest. Our work took place on the Little Loon Creek trail. We cleared the trail of fallen trees, brushed away the overgrowth and crossed creeks at least 40 times to do so. I could definitely feel the “training” part of this hitch. My backpack was heavy, overflowing, and my hips ached within a mile. I nearly fell asleep in my tent with half a snickers bar in my pocket. I brought enough salt for a month and not nearly enough coffee.

Little Loon Creek Trail, creek down to the right beneath the alder trees.

In the high desert ecosystem, I saw wild rose, wild strawberry, western larkspur, sage brush, alder tree, chipmunk, rattlesnake, deer mouse, and large cat signs. The sun was hot on the exposed scree fields, but the shade was cool beneath the alders by the creek. I had no expectations for what my summer would look like. But I am here now, and I look forward to what is to come.

Front door of the Cougar Creek Ranch single room cabin.

Flying home at the end of hitch looking over the Salmon River through the bush plane back window.

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BAILEY UNDERWOOD

Missoula, MT

University of Montana- Wildlife Biology

Bailey grew up a military brat and moved around a lot. Despite frequent change in her childhood, her love and appreciation for nature was a constant. Bailey’s education and work experience in wildlife conservation has taught her the importance of balance within nature. Bailey looks forward to exploring the wilderness areas near her new home base through the SBFC Wilderness Ranger Fellowship program. Although new to trail work, she is excited to learn about responsible stewardship of wild places. She believes that respect towards the land is respect to all who inhabit it.

Sky N' Trees

Tom Urmston

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Salmon-Challis National Forest | Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness

May 27 - June 1, 2024             

The view from above. Enroute to Cougar Airstrip.

I could feel my nervous energy increasing with each mile we drove closer to Challis, Idaho. This small town in Custer County with a population of approximately 958 people would be the beginning of the training hitch journey of the SBFC “Sky N’ Trees” team. On May 27th, our team departed Missoula around 5:30 a.m. and arrived at Challis Airport around 10:00 a.m. Myself and five other fellows (Nate T, Sammy P, Bailey, Rowan, and Emma), as well as our three crew leads (Phoebe, Wyatt, and Robbie), would be taking bush planes to Cougar Airstrip, a remote airstrip located alongside the Middle Fork of the Salmon River in the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness Area.

I’ll admit that I’m an anxious flier and was a wee bit nervous about flying in a small 4-seater bush plane that would be weaving in and around mountains. However, I knew I had to psych myself up and look ahead to the unforgettable experience I would be partaking in. It didn’t take long once we packed up our tools and gear into the planes before we were inbound for Cougar Airstrip. The flight over was absolutely breathtaking. You look out the window and see a landscape that has probably been relatively unchanged for millions of years. I got to share this incredible experience with Robbie and Emma, alongside our pilot Adam.

Our one and only use of the crosscut saw during the training hitch. Pictured is Emma and Sammy

Once everybody had safely landed and all our gear and tools were accounted for, our team of nine strong hiked roughly 1.5 miles southwest of the airstrip to a nice campground that overlooked the Salmon River. This would be our base camp for the next 5 days. Our goal with this hitch was to clear Little Loon Trail, a trail that hadn’t been cleared since 2003! To our surprise, we only needed to use our crosscut saw(s) once when we had to remove a large log a very short distance from camp. The rest of our time was allocated to brushing and removing any vegetation impeding the use of the trail. Katana boys, big boys, pocket boys, and loppers were the four tools that assisted us with this endeavor. Our “Sky N’ Trees” team covered around 4 miles of brushing over our 5-day stay in the Frank!

Rowan crossing the Little Loon creek on our way to another day of brushing.

The cold creek crossings at 7:30 a.m. or the steep, rocky terrain were no match for the dedication this crew had to accomplishing our goal. On June 1st, around 8 a.m., we departed Cougar Airstrip and made the return trip to Challis. As I looked out the window onto the landscape below, I couldn’t stop thinking about how our teamwork and cooperation with each other during that hitch will go a long way in ensuring a successful and prosperous season here at SBFC. With that being said, I say cheers to the beginning of the 2024 season! 

Cougar Ranch Cabin. A small cabin a short distance from Cougar Airstrip.

Sammy’s boot mishap. The sole came off on day 2 of the hitch.

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TOM URMSTON

Annandale, NJ

University of New Hampshire- Wildlife & Conservation Biology

Tom has always had an interest in the outdoors, specifically wildlife. During the summer of 2023, Tom was a Trail Ambassador for the Hunterdon County Parks Department, where he worked with fellow Trail Ambassadors to accomplish trail maintenance, outdoor concert preparation, and instructing clients on proper canoe and kayak techniques. Tom is thrilled to spend his summer as a 2024 SBFC Wilderness Ranger Fellow.